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Posts Tagged ‘Parking lot’
Thursday, July 21st, 2011
Even the most durable paved surfaces, like asphalt pavement, are susceptible to deterioration, distress, and cracking. However, knowing what causes these problems can help you prolong the life of your asphalt. This article from PaveManPro.com can help. It outlines the major causes of pavement deterioration.
Overtime, the materials that make up asphalt begin to break down and become more easily affected by the elements: rain, sunlight, snow, etc. Furthermore, the liquid binder that holds the asphalt together begins to lose its natural resistance to water, allowing liquid to seep into the pavement. Once this happens, the surface can quickly be affected.
Yet, while pavement will naturally breakdown over time, there are a few outside factors – poor construction or human error – that may speed up this process, causing premature deterioration.
The factors leading to asphalt deterioration include:
• Insufficient or improperly compacted base below the asphalt
• Over or under compaction of asphalt
• Improper temperature of asphalt when applied
• Poor drainage
• Water – over time and especially without proper maintenance water penetrates the asphalt, washes out the base underneath it, causing it to crack, break down and collapse.
• Sunlight – Oxidation breaks down and dries out the once flexible liquid asphalt that holds the aggregate together. This causes raveling and shrinking cracks, which allow water to penetrate beneath the surface.
• Chemical/ petroleum exposure – the introduction of chemicals to asphalt, including gas and oil, can soften the asphalt and cause it to break down more rapidly.
When asphalt pavement is constructed and maintained properly it wears out slowly and can last up to 25 years or more. Proper maintenance is key to protecting it from the external factors that wear it out.
If you notice your driveway, parking lot, or any pavement displaying any signs of deterioration, it is probably time to call a professional to patch your asphalt and prevent further damage. Do not put this off and let small cracks become big problems. It is far better to pay for a little patching now than to have to pay for a total re-paving down the road.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Friday, June 24th, 2011
It’s a hole in the road. How hard can it be to fill a hole, right? Well, you might be surprised. Pothole repair is tough work and requires a trained crew and some specialty equipment. This article from PaveManPro.com explains the lengthy repair process.
How to repair a pothole:
1. With a pavement saw or pneumatic hammer, cut the outline of the patch, extending at least 0.3 m (I ft.) outside of the distressed area. The outline should be square or rectangular with two of the sides at right angles to the direction of traffic.
2. Excavate as much pavement as necessary to reach firm support. If a patch is to be an integral part of the pavement, its foundation must be as strong or stronger than that of the original roadway. This may mean that some of the sub-grade will also have to be removed. The faces of the excavation should be straight and vertical.
3. Trim and compact the sub-grade.
4. Apply a tack coat to the vertical faces of the excavation.
5. Backfill with the asphalt mixture. Using a shovel or skid steer loader place the mixture directly from the truck into the prepared excavation. The maximum lift thickness largely depends upon the type of asphalt mixture and the available compaction equipment. Asphalt concrete can and should be placed in deep lifts, since the greater heat retention of the thicker layers facilitates compaction. From a compaction standpoint, patches using asphalt concrete can be backfilled in one lift. However, when placing a patch that is deeper than 3 cm (5 in.) it is often useful to leave the first lift 2.5 to 5 cm (I to 2 in.) below the finished grade, making it easier to judge the total quantity of mixture required for the patch.
On the other hand, patches constructed with mixtures containing emulsified or cutback asphalt must be placed in layers thin enough to permit evaporation of the diluents that make the mixture workable.
6. Spread carefully to avoid segregation of the mixture. Avoid pulling the material from the center of the patch to the edges. If more material is needed at the edge, it should be deposited there, and the excess raked away. The amount of mixture used should be sufficient to ensure that the after compaction the patch surface will not be below that of the adjacent pavement. On the other hand, if too much material is used a hump will raise.
7. Compact each lift of the patch thoroughly. Use equipment that is suited for the size of the job. A vibratory plate compactor is excellent for small jobs, while a vibratory roller is likely to be more effective for larger areas. When compacting the final lift (which may be the only lift), overlap the first pass and return of the vibratory roller or plate compactor to no more than 5 cm (6 in.) on to the patch on one side. Then move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Once this is accomplished, proceed at right angles to the compacted edges, with each pass and return overlapping a few inches on to the uncompacted mix. If there is a grade, compaction should proceed from the low side to the high side to minimize possible shoving of the mix.
8. When adequate compaction equipment is used, the surface of the patch should be at the same elevation as the surrounding pavement. However, if hand tamping or other light compaction methods are used, the surface of the completed patch should be slightly higher than the adjacent pavement, since the patch is likely to be further compressed by traffic.
9. Check the vertical alignment and smoothness of the patch with a straightedge or string line.
So next time you complain about that pothole down the street not getting fixed or next time you think to yourself, “hey, I could do that in half the time,” remember that pothole repair is not a quick fix. Properly patching a pothole takes time, know-how, and a lot of energy.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Pothole Repair: It’s a Bigger Job Than You May Think
Thursday, June 2nd, 2011
Unfortunately, even the best pavement is not indestructible. Heavy traffic usage and weather changes, along with several other outside factors, can lead to pavement distress, which is noticeable physical damage on roads or sidewalks. If not dealt with quickly, pavement distress can lead to more serious problems, all of which can significantly shorten the lifespan of your pavement.
But how can you spot pavement distress in time? This article from eHow.com explains how you can quickly identify pavement distress.
1. Assess cracks on the surface of the pavement. Alligator cracking appears as a network of cracks, forming a pattern somewhat like the skin of an alligator or wonky squares. As the U.S. Department of Transportation outlines in its “Pavement Distress Identification Manual for the NPS Road Inventory Program, 2006 -2009,” the severity of the distress can be measured. It is considered low when the width of the crack is less than 1/4 inch in width. However, the alligator distress is serious when the cracks are more than 3/4 inch wide.
2. Check the pavement’s surface for long strips of cracking. These are ruts that run either along the length of the pavement or sideways across the surface. In places where the cracks are more than 3/4 inch in width, the distress is considered serious and can buckle the pavement, causing bumps. Hot weather can cause this type of pavement distress.
3. Identify gouged-out areas or dips on the surface of the road. Pavement distress is characterised by potholes. These are concave holes on the surface, which are a nuisance for drivers. The holes can cause punctures in tires, gather water and lead to further cracking.
4. Look for dark square or rectangular patches of asphalt on the pavement. Distress can be identified by finding discolored areas where potholes or previous distress marks have been filled or covered over. The replacement asphalt causes a dark patch to be seen. Cracking, ruts or potholes can often be seen in proximity to the patching, which is indicative of pavement distress.
5. Crouch down and look across the surface of the pavement. Identify two lines of depressions in the road’s surface. If these are in the direction of the wheel paths, this distress is called rutting. Rutting occurs when continuous use of the pavement by heavy vehicles causes the surface to sink. It is classified as severe when the depressions are greater than 1 inch below the surface of the pavement.
Once you have identified pavement distress, it is time to repair the damage. There are several products available that allow you to do the job yourself, but if you want to ensure your pavement is properly fixed, it is probably best to call a professional.
If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Identify Pavement Distress
Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
After Concrete is laid, the inevitable settling, shifting and moving will occur. But in extreme cases, when the ground settles below the concrete or when a tree root comes into contact with the pavement, walkways or patios can break and lift. These unsightly blemishes on your otherwise pristine concrete surface can ruin the entire look and feel of your patio or walkway. And with Memorial Day right around the corner, you are going to want your home to look perfect for your guests.
This article from eHow.com provides 4 ways in which you can quickly repair that broken and lifted concrete.
Instructions
1. The easiest way to repair lifting concrete pavement is to grind it down. Most driveways are at least 6″ thick by code, so there should be sufficient grinding depth. Walkways and patios are 3″ – 4″ in thickness. Renting a scarifier is probably the most practical way to do this yourself. This is not an easy machine to use, so if you are not comfortable with the job, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.
2. If the lifting is the result of tree root growth, you will have to grind your cement down repetitively as the roots will continue to push the concrete up. A better solution is to remove the concrete pavement all together, cut out the offending root(s) and re-pour the cement.
3. A quick fix would be to fill in the ‘step’ created by the raised concrete with a cement adhesive and concrete/polymer fill. Even if you carefully rough up the lower cement, this ramp-like fix will only be a temporary patch at best. It will chip away fairly quickly, especially on a driveway pavement with heavy traffic.
4. Better left to the professionals, you can float a slab of concrete that has sunk into the ground by drilling holes and pumping in a cement mix. This will literally float the slab back up with the pressure of the concrete beneath.
Now you can enjoy your Memorial Day barbeque without having to hear, “What happened to your patio!?” at least 50 times. If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Wednesday, May 18th, 2011
Pavement ants, also known as house ants or sugar ants, can be quite a nuisance. They set up camp in your yard or inside the cracks in your pavement and eventually work their way into your home. The best thing to do when you find pavement ants is to rid yourself of the infestation as soon as possible.
But how can you do that? You are no exterminator and you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store to buy ant spray, right? Well, you can use one household item to help assist you in your quest for an ant free existence – salt.
That’s right, all you need is everyday salt. This article from eHow.com explains several solutions to rid yourself of those pesky pavement ants using nothing but common table salt.
1. Sprinkle ordinary table salt on cracks in the driveway, along the sides and where the ants are present. Make sure the driveway and surrounding areas are dry before applying salt for the best effectiveness.
2. Repeat weekly until the ants are gone. After consuming the salt, the ants will drink water or other moisture until they essentially explode. Be aware that the salt will also kill any weeds or plants present, so use caution.
3. Draw a line with salt at the end of the driveway on the pavement to prevent the ants from crossing over into the lawn or home.
4. If table salt is not effective, purchase a sweet ant bait trap that contains boric acid salt. (Boric acid is a hydroponic salt.) The ants are attracted to the sugar in the bait, consume the boric acid salt with the sugar, and then take the poison back to their home, where it spreads to the other ants.
5. Place the ant baits along the sides and ends of the driveway. Use caution when using ant baits because boric acid can be toxic to pets and humans as well as insects.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Wednesday, May 4th, 2011
If you have ever had an oil stain on your asphalt driveway or parking lot, you know just how much these eyesores can detract from the beauty of your home or office. You do not want to send the wrong first impression to your guests/clients, so it is very important to address these issues when they first arise.
This article from eHow.com provides a step-by-step breakdown of the stain removal process. With just a little know-how and some elbow grease, you can be stain free in no time.
How to remove that unsightly stain:
1. Cover the entire oil stain with a large amount of kitty litter.
2. Allow the kitty litter to remain on the oil stain overnight.
3. Sweep the kitty litter with a broom. Use a dustpan to collect the used kitty litter and place it into a trash bag.
4. Pour 4 cups of baking soda onto the oil-stained concrete.
5. Add a small amount of water from a garden hose. Use just enough water to form a thick paste.
6. Use a stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained concrete.
7. Allow the paste to remain on the stained concrete overnight.
8. Add a small amount of water to the paste from a garden hose. Use just enough water to moisten the dried baking soda paste.
9. Use the stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained area.
10. Rinse away the remains of the paste with water from the garden hose.
11. Repeat the process if needed if the oil stain remains after the concrete has dried.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
Tags: address these issues, asphalt, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, Concrete, Concrete Instlallation, Concrete Maintenance, consult a professional, detract from the beauty of your home or office, eyesores, How to, How to Remove an Oil Stain on Your Asphalt, kitty litter, know-how, maryland, My Pavement Guy, oil stain, Parking lot, PTG Enterprises, stain removal, unsightly stain, wrong first impression
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Friday, April 15th, 2011
As they say, knowledge is power. The key to making a wise business decision is being educated on the subject. So if you are ready to have any pavement work done around your business, large or small, this is what you need to know before you even think about call a contractor.
Bidding a Pavement Project
1. Request For Proposal (RFP)
This is a method that is widely accepted within the industry when a client has a specific problem and needs that problem corrected. The client has an RFP prepared that clearly specifies the scope of work. This is usually done by an independent source, like a pavement consultant, reserve study engineer or by a contractor you trust. Once this scope is created, it is typically sent to three to five contractors and a pre-bid meeting is scheduled. A pre-bid meeting is another widely accepted practice within the industry. It involves the client, board members, building owners, anchor tenants, and the three to five contractors you picked. This meeting is designed to provide all key parties the opportunity to have a question and answer session. Usually, the RFP is tweaked at these meetings and little changes are made to accommodate either the contractor or the client. A successful pre-bid meeting will have the contractor leaving with a clear understanding of how he/she is to perform the scope of work. And, the client will leave knowing they are going to receive apples-to-apples bidding. It is vitally important that every contractor bid the RFP the same way. The client should avoid at all costs the instinct to send three to five contractors to a site with directions to “evaluate the property and bid the way you think it should be corrected”. This usually produces three to five different scopes of work with wide ranging price swings.
2. Reverse Bidding
This type of bidding has become more popular as budgets have become smaller. When a client needs more work, asphalt patching, sidewalk repairs, etc. then they have budgeted for, the client reveals their budget number to several contractors. For example, “I have $15,000 in the budget for asphalt repairs.” Those contractors then produce competitive bids on the volume of work they are willing to complete for $15,000. For example, contractor A will complete 275 square yards of repair, contractor B will complete 325 square yards of repair, and contractor C will complete 300 square yards of repair. In this scenario, the client would pick contractor B because they are giving you the best value. Once a contract is awarded, the client and contractor would visit the site and determine the worst 325 square yards of repair. If this practice is repeated year after year, a client can usually get a handle on an out of control pavement situation within a few years.
Hiring the Right Contractor
Once you have received an ample number of bids it is time to hire a contractor. You should ask for the following from your pavement contractor:
1. Contractors License: Every state has its own departments of licensing and regulation. This is the agency that issues business and contractors licenses. Make sure any contractor you use is properly licensed. ( My Contractors License Number is MHIC # 51204 )
2. References: Most reputable contractors are eager to furnish references. Check to see if the jobs were performed to satisfaction in a timely, professional manner.
3. A warranty: Too often, business owners or property managers find out after a disappointing experience that there is no warranty on the work. If a warranty is offered, get it in writing. Most contractors place their warranty information on their proposals.
4. A certificate of insurance: These are simple form letters sent out by request from the insurance company that insures the contractor. General liability and workers compensation insurance is easily attainable for legitimate companies.
5. Do not pay full cost in advance: Most state laws prohibit contractors from receiving more than 1/3 of the contract price at the acceptance of the contract. Find out the terms of payment and avoid contractors that only accept cash.
6. Get it in writing: Always get a written contract before you permit work to proceed. This should detail when work is to begin, the exact details of the improvements to be made, the quality of material to be used, an estimated completion date and payment terms. Read the entire contract before signing, including any small print.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 443-463-1536 or click here today!
Tags: Anchor tenant, Asphault, Asphault installation, Asphault Maryland, Asphault repair, Asphault repairs, Bid, Bidding a Pavement Project, Board Member, Budget, Building Owner, Business, certificate of insurance, Client, Contractor, Contractors License, Cost, Do not pay full cost in advance, Get it in writing, Hiring a Contractor, Industry, Job, Knowledge, Lot, Meeting, My Pavement Guy, Parking lot, pavement, Pavement Contractor, Pavement installation, Pavement Maryland, Pre-bid, PTG Enterprises, References, Repairs, request for proposal, reverse bidding, RFP, Understanding, warranty, Work, Yards
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