Blog
Posts Tagged ‘asphalt’
Thursday, July 21st, 2011
Even the most durable paved surfaces, like asphalt pavement, are susceptible to deterioration, distress, and cracking. However, knowing what causes these problems can help you prolong the life of your asphalt. This article from PaveManPro.com can help. It outlines the major causes of pavement deterioration.
Overtime, the materials that make up asphalt begin to break down and become more easily affected by the elements: rain, sunlight, snow, etc. Furthermore, the liquid binder that holds the asphalt together begins to lose its natural resistance to water, allowing liquid to seep into the pavement. Once this happens, the surface can quickly be affected.
Yet, while pavement will naturally breakdown over time, there are a few outside factors – poor construction or human error – that may speed up this process, causing premature deterioration.
The factors leading to asphalt deterioration include:
• Insufficient or improperly compacted base below the asphalt
• Over or under compaction of asphalt
• Improper temperature of asphalt when applied
• Poor drainage
• Water – over time and especially without proper maintenance water penetrates the asphalt, washes out the base underneath it, causing it to crack, break down and collapse.
• Sunlight – Oxidation breaks down and dries out the once flexible liquid asphalt that holds the aggregate together. This causes raveling and shrinking cracks, which allow water to penetrate beneath the surface.
• Chemical/ petroleum exposure – the introduction of chemicals to asphalt, including gas and oil, can soften the asphalt and cause it to break down more rapidly.
When asphalt pavement is constructed and maintained properly it wears out slowly and can last up to 25 years or more. Proper maintenance is key to protecting it from the external factors that wear it out.
If you notice your driveway, parking lot, or any pavement displaying any signs of deterioration, it is probably time to call a professional to patch your asphalt and prevent further damage. Do not put this off and let small cracks become big problems. It is far better to pay for a little patching now than to have to pay for a total re-paving down the road.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: affected by the elements, aggregate t, asphalt, Asphalt Pavement, break down a, Causes, Chemical, Cracking, Cracks, Damage, deterioration, distress, driveway, Durable, external factors, factors, flexible liquid asphalt, human error, Improper temperature of asphalt, improperly compacted base, Insuffieciently compacted base, liquid binder, maintained properly, Maintenance, Major causes, major causes of pavement deterioration, Materials, materials that make up asphalt, My Pavement Guy, Over compaction of asphalt, Oxidation, Parking lot, patch your asphalt, patching, Paved, paved surfaces, pavement, pavement deterioration, pavement will naturally breakdown over time, Petroleum Exposure, poor construction, Poor drainage, premature deterioration, Prevent further damage, Problems, Professional, proper maintenance, PTG Enterprises, Rain, Raveling, Re-paving, resistance to water, Road, Shrinking cracks, signs of deterioration, Snow, sunlight, The Deterioration of Asphalt Pavement and its Causes, under compaction of asphalt, Water, what causes these problems
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on The Deterioration of Asphalt Pavement and its Causes
Thursday, July 14th, 2011
It is a well-known fact that water and asphalt do not mix. Harsh weather can cause asphalt to become distressed, crack, and eventually fail. This article from PaveManPro.com outlines the 13 ways in which weather adversely affects your pavement.
1. Alligator Cracking: Alligator cracking is a load associated structural failure. The failure can be due to weakness in the surface, base or sub grade; a surface or base that is too thin; poor drainage or the combination of all three. It often starts in the wheel path as longitudinal cracking and ends up as alligator cracking after severe distress.
2. Block Cracking: Block cracks look like large interconnected rectangles (roughly). Block cracking is not load-associated, but generally caused by shrinkage of the asphalt pavement due to an inability of asphalt binder to expand and contract with temperature cycles. This can be because the mix was mixed and placed too dry; Fine aggregate mix with low penetration asphalt & absorptive aggregates; poor choice of asphalt binder in the mix design; or aging dried out asphalt.
3. Longitudinal (Linear) Cracking: Longitudinal cracking are cracks that are parallel to the pavements centerline or laydown direction. These can be a result of both pavement fatigue, reflective cracking, and/or poor joint construction. Joints are generally the least dense areas of a pavement.
4. Transverse Cracking: Transverse cracks are single cracks perpendicular to the pavement’s centerline or laydown direction. Transverse cracks can be caused by reflective cracks from an underlying layer, daily temperature cycles, and poor construction due to improper operation of the paver.
5. Edge Cracks: Edge Cracks travel along the inside edge of a pavement surface within one or two feet. The most common cause for this type of crack is poor drainage conditions and lack of support at the pavement edge. As a result underlying base materials settle and become weakened. Heavy vegetation along the pavement edge and heavy traffic can also be the instigator of edge cracking.
6. Joint Reflection Cracks: These are cracks in a flexible pavement overlay of a rigid pavement (i.e., asphalt over concrete). They occur directly over the underlying rigid pavement joints. Joint reflection cracking does not include reflection cracks that occur away from an underlying joint or from any other type of base (e.g., cement or lime stabilized).
7. Slippage Cracks: Slippage cracks are crescent-shaped cracks or tears in the surface layer(s) of asphalt where the new material has slipped over the underlying course. This problem is caused by a lack of bonding between layers. This is often because a tack coat was not used to develop a bond between the asphalt layers or because a prime coat was not used to bond the asphalt to the underlying stone base course. The lack of bond can be also caused by dirt, oil, or other contaminants preventing adhesion between the layers.
8. Pot Holes: Small, bowl-shaped depressions in the pavement surface that penetrate all the way through the asphalt layer down to the base course. They generally have sharp edges and vertical sides near the top of the hole. Potholes are the result of moisture infiltration and usually the end result of untreated alligator cracking. As alligator cracking becomes severe, the interconnected cracks create small chunks of pavement, which can be dislodged as vehicles drive over them. The remaining hole after the pavement chunk is dislodged is called a pothole.
9. Depressions (bird baths): Depressions are localized pavement surface areas with slightly lower elevations than the surrounding pavement. Depressions are very noticeable after a rain when they fill with water.
10. Rutting: Ruts in asphalt pavements are channelized depressions in the wheel-tracks. Rutting results from consolidation or lateral movement of any of the pavement layers or the subgrade under traffic. It is caused by insufficient pavement thickness; lack of compaction of the asphalt, stone base or soil; weak asphalt mixes; or moisture infiltration.
11. Shoving: Shoving is the formation of ripples across a pavement. This characteristic shape is why this type of distress is sometimes called wash-boarding. Shoving occurs at locations having severe horizontal stresses, such as intersections. It is typically caused by: excess asphalt; too much fine aggregate; rounded aggregate; too soft an asphalt; or a weak granular base.
12. Upheaval: Upheaval is a localized upward movement in a pavement due to swelling of the subgrade. This can be due to expansive soils that swell due to moisture or frost heave (ice under the pavement).
13. Raveling (very porous asphalt): Raveling is the on-going separation of aggregate particles in a pavement from the surface downward or from the edges inward. Usually, the fine aggregate wears away first and then leaves little “pock marks” on the pavement surface. As the erosion continues, larger and larger particles are broken free and the pavement soon has the rough and jagged appearance typical of surface erosion. There are many reasons why raveling can occur, but one common cause is placing asphalt too late in the season. This is because the mixture usually lacks warm weather traffic which reduces pavement surface voids, further densification, and kneading of the asphalt mat. For this reason raveling is more common in the more northern regions(snow belt).
If you notice your pavement displaying any of the above problems, it is probably time to call a professional to patch your asphalt and prevent further damage. Do not put this off and let small cracks become big problems. It is far better to pay for a little patching now than to have to pay for a total re-paving down the road.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: Aggregate, Alligator cracking, asphalt, Asphalt binder, Asphalt Pavement, Base, bird baths, Block Cracking, Block cracks, contract, Crack, Cracking, Cracks, Depressions, distress, Distressed, Drainage, Edge Cracks, Erosion, expand, Fail, Harsh weather, Heavy Traffic, Identifying Pavement Defects, interconnected cracks, Jagged, Joint Reflection Cracks, Linear Cracking, longitudinal cracking, Moisture, My Pavement Guy, pavement, Pavement Defects, Pavement Joints, Pock Marks, porous asphalt, Pot Holes, PTG Enterprises, Rain, Raveling, Rough, Ruts, Rutting, severe distress, Shoving, Shrinkage, Slippage Cracks, Snow, Structural failure, Sub grade, Surface, Temperature, Traffic, Transverse Cracking, Upheaval, Water, Weather
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Identifying Pavement Defects
Wednesday, July 6th, 2011
Even the best pavement will crack and deteriorate after time. But there are ways in which you can extend the life of your pavement. One of these ways, as this article from PaveManPro.com explains, is Pavement Sealer.
Asphalt hardening is an oxidation process and is a function of its exposure to air on the surface and within the pavement. If circulation of air through the interconnected void spaces in the pavement can be prevented or reduced, the rate of hardening of the asphalt will be slowed and the life of the pavement extended. Pavement sealers are used to do just that – close the surface pores to lengthen the life of the pavement.
Pavement sealers come in two basic formulas: Refined Tar-Based Sealer and Asphalt Based Emulsions.
Refined Tar-Based Sealer
Refined tar is a by-product of the distillation of crude coal tar. Refined tar differs from crude coal tar in that during the distillation process, the lighter end oils are removed from the refined tar. Refined tar based sealer is resistant to attack from petroleum based products. This property makes it ideally suited for parking lots or other locations where concentrations of oil and grease leaks are common. Refined tar-based sealer is also highly resistant to ultraviolet light bleaching. It is stable, homogeneous, easy to apply, and has been handled safely by professionals and do-it-yourselfers for decades. Refined tar based sealer has traditionally been used at gas stations, truck and bus terminals, airport aprons and taxiways as well as on residential driveways and commercial parking lots.
Asphalt based emulsions
Asphalt-based emulsions have many of the same beneficial properties as refined tar- based emulsions, but they are less resistant to corrosion by petroleum-based products, ultraviolet bleaching, and salts. An asphalt emulsion is a mixture of liquid asphalt and water. Manufacturers add special chemicals and pigments to the asphalt emulsions to improve performance but they remain susceptible to the damage caused by petroleum products.
Pavement sealers allow homeowners and businesses to maintain their asphalt effectively and economically. Research has shown that when asphalt pavement is maintained properly, the owner can extend the life of their pavement and delay costly reconstruction.
If you have any questions or if you think asphalt pavement might be right for your next project, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: Airport Aprons, asphalt, Asphalt Based Emulsions, Asphalt Hardening, Asphalt Pavement, Beneficial, Benefits of Preventative Maintenance Pavement Sealers, Bus Terminals, Businesses, Chemicals, Commercial, Crack, Deteriorate, Driveways, Economically, Effectively, Extend Life, Extend the life of your pavement, Gas Stations, Homeowners, Improve Performance, Maintain, My Pavement Guy, Oxidation, Oxidation Process, parking lots, pavement, Pavement Sealers, petroleum based products, Pores, Preventative maintenance, Process, Professionals, PTG Enterprises, Refined, Refined Tar-Based Sealer, Residential, Resistant to Corrosion, Sealer, Surface, Surface Pores, Tar, Taxiways
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Benefits of Preventative Maintenance Pavement Sealers
Friday, June 24th, 2011
It’s a hole in the road. How hard can it be to fill a hole, right? Well, you might be surprised. Pothole repair is tough work and requires a trained crew and some specialty equipment. This article from PaveManPro.com explains the lengthy repair process.
How to repair a pothole:
1. With a pavement saw or pneumatic hammer, cut the outline of the patch, extending at least 0.3 m (I ft.) outside of the distressed area. The outline should be square or rectangular with two of the sides at right angles to the direction of traffic.
2. Excavate as much pavement as necessary to reach firm support. If a patch is to be an integral part of the pavement, its foundation must be as strong or stronger than that of the original roadway. This may mean that some of the sub-grade will also have to be removed. The faces of the excavation should be straight and vertical.
3. Trim and compact the sub-grade.
4. Apply a tack coat to the vertical faces of the excavation.
5. Backfill with the asphalt mixture. Using a shovel or skid steer loader place the mixture directly from the truck into the prepared excavation. The maximum lift thickness largely depends upon the type of asphalt mixture and the available compaction equipment. Asphalt concrete can and should be placed in deep lifts, since the greater heat retention of the thicker layers facilitates compaction. From a compaction standpoint, patches using asphalt concrete can be backfilled in one lift. However, when placing a patch that is deeper than 3 cm (5 in.) it is often useful to leave the first lift 2.5 to 5 cm (I to 2 in.) below the finished grade, making it easier to judge the total quantity of mixture required for the patch.
On the other hand, patches constructed with mixtures containing emulsified or cutback asphalt must be placed in layers thin enough to permit evaporation of the diluents that make the mixture workable.
6. Spread carefully to avoid segregation of the mixture. Avoid pulling the material from the center of the patch to the edges. If more material is needed at the edge, it should be deposited there, and the excess raked away. The amount of mixture used should be sufficient to ensure that the after compaction the patch surface will not be below that of the adjacent pavement. On the other hand, if too much material is used a hump will raise.
7. Compact each lift of the patch thoroughly. Use equipment that is suited for the size of the job. A vibratory plate compactor is excellent for small jobs, while a vibratory roller is likely to be more effective for larger areas. When compacting the final lift (which may be the only lift), overlap the first pass and return of the vibratory roller or plate compactor to no more than 5 cm (6 in.) on to the patch on one side. Then move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Once this is accomplished, proceed at right angles to the compacted edges, with each pass and return overlapping a few inches on to the uncompacted mix. If there is a grade, compaction should proceed from the low side to the high side to minimize possible shoving of the mix.
8. When adequate compaction equipment is used, the surface of the patch should be at the same elevation as the surrounding pavement. However, if hand tamping or other light compaction methods are used, the surface of the completed patch should be slightly higher than the adjacent pavement, since the patch is likely to be further compressed by traffic.
9. Check the vertical alignment and smoothness of the patch with a straightedge or string line.
So next time you complain about that pothole down the street not getting fixed or next time you think to yourself, “hey, I could do that in half the time,” remember that pothole repair is not a quick fix. Properly patching a pothole takes time, know-how, and a lot of energy.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: asphalt, Asphalt cracks, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt repair, Asphalt repair Maryland, Bidding a Pavement Project, Contractor, crack fill, Cracking, distress, driveway, driveway pothole, driveway repair, driveway repair Maryland, failure, fill cracks, FUll-depth patching, Hiring a Contractor, How can you quickly fix a pothole in your driveway?, How do potholes happen, Maintenance, maryland, My Pavement Guy, Parking lot, patching, pave, pavement, Pavement Contractor, Pavement cracks, Pavement installation, Pavement Maintenance, Pavement Maryland, pavement repair, paving, paving contractor, paving maryland, paving project, Permanent fix, Pothole, Pothole driveway, Pothole quick fix, Pothole repair Maryland, Potholes and Repair, Preventative maintenance, PTG Enterprises, quick fix, Re-striping, re-striping asphalt, re-striping pavement, Repair, repave, repaving, reverse bidding, RFP, Sealcoating, Sigsn, Temporary fix, trouble area, troubled area, Wheel Stops
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Pothole Repair: It’s a Bigger Job Than You May Think
Thursday, June 2nd, 2011
Unfortunately, even the best pavement is not indestructible. Heavy traffic usage and weather changes, along with several other outside factors, can lead to pavement distress, which is noticeable physical damage on roads or sidewalks. If not dealt with quickly, pavement distress can lead to more serious problems, all of which can significantly shorten the lifespan of your pavement.
But how can you spot pavement distress in time? This article from eHow.com explains how you can quickly identify pavement distress.
1. Assess cracks on the surface of the pavement. Alligator cracking appears as a network of cracks, forming a pattern somewhat like the skin of an alligator or wonky squares. As the U.S. Department of Transportation outlines in its “Pavement Distress Identification Manual for the NPS Road Inventory Program, 2006 -2009,” the severity of the distress can be measured. It is considered low when the width of the crack is less than 1/4 inch in width. However, the alligator distress is serious when the cracks are more than 3/4 inch wide.
2. Check the pavement’s surface for long strips of cracking. These are ruts that run either along the length of the pavement or sideways across the surface. In places where the cracks are more than 3/4 inch in width, the distress is considered serious and can buckle the pavement, causing bumps. Hot weather can cause this type of pavement distress.
3. Identify gouged-out areas or dips on the surface of the road. Pavement distress is characterised by potholes. These are concave holes on the surface, which are a nuisance for drivers. The holes can cause punctures in tires, gather water and lead to further cracking.
4. Look for dark square or rectangular patches of asphalt on the pavement. Distress can be identified by finding discolored areas where potholes or previous distress marks have been filled or covered over. The replacement asphalt causes a dark patch to be seen. Cracking, ruts or potholes can often be seen in proximity to the patching, which is indicative of pavement distress.
5. Crouch down and look across the surface of the pavement. Identify two lines of depressions in the road’s surface. If these are in the direction of the wheel paths, this distress is called rutting. Rutting occurs when continuous use of the pavement by heavy vehicles causes the surface to sink. It is classified as severe when the depressions are greater than 1 inch below the surface of the pavement.
Once you have identified pavement distress, it is time to repair the damage. There are several products available that allow you to do the job yourself, but if you want to ensure your pavement is properly fixed, it is probably best to call a professional.
If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Tags: Alligator cracking, Anchor tenant, asphalt, Asphalt cracks, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt repair, Bid, Bidding a Pavement Project, Board Member, Budget, Building Owner, Business, Cement mix, certificate of insurance, Client, Concrete, Concrete Crack, Concrete cracking, Concrete Cracks, Concrete repair, Concrete repair Maryland, Contractor, Contractors License, Cost, crack fill, Crack in Concrete, Crack in pavement, Crack in Sidewalk, Cracking, Cracking Concrete, Cracking in sidewalk, Cracking Pavement, Cracks in Concrete, Cracks in Pavement, Cracks in Sidewalk, Do not pay full cost in advance, fill cracks, Fix, Fixing, Get it in writing, Hiring a Contractor, How to fix, How to Identify Pavement Distress, Identification, Industry, Job, Knowledge, Lot, Maintenance, Meeting, My Pavement Guy, Parking lot, pavement, Pavement Contractor, Pavement crack, Pavement Cracking, Pavement cracks, Pavement installation, Pavement Maintenance, Pavement Maryland, Pavement repair Maryland, Pavements Cracks, Pothole, Potholes, Pre-bid, Preventative maintenance, PTG Enterprises, Re-striping, re-striping asphalt, re-striping pavement, References, Repair, Repairing Lifted Concrete, Repairs, request for proposal, reverse bidding, RFP, Sealcoating, Sidewalk crack, Sidewalk Cracking, Sidewalk Cracks, Sigsn, Understanding, warranty, Wheel Stops, Work, Yards
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Identify Pavement Distress
Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
After Concrete is laid, the inevitable settling, shifting and moving will occur. But in extreme cases, when the ground settles below the concrete or when a tree root comes into contact with the pavement, walkways or patios can break and lift. These unsightly blemishes on your otherwise pristine concrete surface can ruin the entire look and feel of your patio or walkway. And with Memorial Day right around the corner, you are going to want your home to look perfect for your guests.
This article from eHow.com provides 4 ways in which you can quickly repair that broken and lifted concrete.
Instructions
1. The easiest way to repair lifting concrete pavement is to grind it down. Most driveways are at least 6″ thick by code, so there should be sufficient grinding depth. Walkways and patios are 3″ – 4″ in thickness. Renting a scarifier is probably the most practical way to do this yourself. This is not an easy machine to use, so if you are not comfortable with the job, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.
2. If the lifting is the result of tree root growth, you will have to grind your cement down repetitively as the roots will continue to push the concrete up. A better solution is to remove the concrete pavement all together, cut out the offending root(s) and re-pour the cement.
3. A quick fix would be to fill in the ‘step’ created by the raised concrete with a cement adhesive and concrete/polymer fill. Even if you carefully rough up the lower cement, this ramp-like fix will only be a temporary patch at best. It will chip away fairly quickly, especially on a driveway pavement with heavy traffic.
4. Better left to the professionals, you can float a slab of concrete that has sunk into the ground by drilling holes and pumping in a cement mix. This will literally float the slab back up with the pressure of the concrete beneath.
Now you can enjoy your Memorial Day barbeque without having to hear, “What happened to your patio!?” at least 50 times. If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
Tags: Anchor tenant, asphalt, Asphalt cracks, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt repair, Bid, Bidding a Pavement Project, Board Member, Budget, Building Owner, Business, Cement mix, certificate of insurance, Client, Concrete, Concrete repair, Concrete repair Maryland, Contractor, Contractors License, Cost, crack fill, Do not pay full cost in advance, fill cracks, Get it in writing, Hiring a Contractor, Industry, Job, Knowledge, Lot, Maintenance, Meeting, My Pavement Guy, Parking lot, pavement, Pavement Contractor, Pavement cracks, Pavement installation, Pavement Maintenance, Pavement Maryland, Pavement repair Maryland, Pre-bid, Preventative maintenance, PTG Enterprises, Re-striping, re-striping asphalt, re-striping pavement, References, Repairing Lifted Concrete, Repairs, request for proposal, reverse bidding, RFP, Sealcoating, Sigsn, Understanding, warranty, Wheel Stops, Work, Yards
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Repairing Lifted Concrete
Wednesday, May 18th, 2011
Pavement ants, also known as house ants or sugar ants, can be quite a nuisance. They set up camp in your yard or inside the cracks in your pavement and eventually work their way into your home. The best thing to do when you find pavement ants is to rid yourself of the infestation as soon as possible.
But how can you do that? You are no exterminator and you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store to buy ant spray, right? Well, you can use one household item to help assist you in your quest for an ant free existence – salt.
That’s right, all you need is everyday salt. This article from eHow.com explains several solutions to rid yourself of those pesky pavement ants using nothing but common table salt.
1. Sprinkle ordinary table salt on cracks in the driveway, along the sides and where the ants are present. Make sure the driveway and surrounding areas are dry before applying salt for the best effectiveness.
2. Repeat weekly until the ants are gone. After consuming the salt, the ants will drink water or other moisture until they essentially explode. Be aware that the salt will also kill any weeds or plants present, so use caution.
3. Draw a line with salt at the end of the driveway on the pavement to prevent the ants from crossing over into the lawn or home.
4. If table salt is not effective, purchase a sweet ant bait trap that contains boric acid salt. (Boric acid is a hydroponic salt.) The ants are attracted to the sugar in the bait, consume the boric acid salt with the sugar, and then take the poison back to their home, where it spreads to the other ants.
5. Place the ant baits along the sides and ends of the driveway. Use caution when using ant baits because boric acid can be toxic to pets and humans as well as insects.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
Tags: Ant extermination, Ants in the cracks of pavement, asphalt, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt repair, Asphault Institute, Baltimore, Cost, Cracking, driveway repair, environmental asphalt, Exterminating Ants, Exterminating ants by yourself, Exterminating Ants in the cracks of pavement, fill cracks, green asphalt, How to, How to easily kill ants, How to kill ants, How to Rid Yourself of Pavement Ants in Your Driveway, Killing ants, Killing Ants in the cracks of pavement, liquid asphalt, maryland, My Pavement Guy, Parking lot, pave, pavement, Pavement Maryland, pavement repair, paving, paving contract, paving contractor, paving contractors, paving maryland, paving project, paving repair, PTG Enterprises, Removing Ants in the cracks of pavement, repave, repaving, repaving project, request for proposal
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Wednesday, May 4th, 2011
If you have ever had an oil stain on your asphalt driveway or parking lot, you know just how much these eyesores can detract from the beauty of your home or office. You do not want to send the wrong first impression to your guests/clients, so it is very important to address these issues when they first arise.
This article from eHow.com provides a step-by-step breakdown of the stain removal process. With just a little know-how and some elbow grease, you can be stain free in no time.
How to remove that unsightly stain:
1. Cover the entire oil stain with a large amount of kitty litter.
2. Allow the kitty litter to remain on the oil stain overnight.
3. Sweep the kitty litter with a broom. Use a dustpan to collect the used kitty litter and place it into a trash bag.
4. Pour 4 cups of baking soda onto the oil-stained concrete.
5. Add a small amount of water from a garden hose. Use just enough water to form a thick paste.
6. Use a stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained concrete.
7. Allow the paste to remain on the stained concrete overnight.
8. Add a small amount of water to the paste from a garden hose. Use just enough water to moisten the dried baking soda paste.
9. Use the stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained area.
10. Rinse away the remains of the paste with water from the garden hose.
11. Repeat the process if needed if the oil stain remains after the concrete has dried.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
Tags: address these issues, asphalt, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, Concrete, Concrete Instlallation, Concrete Maintenance, consult a professional, detract from the beauty of your home or office, eyesores, How to, How to Remove an Oil Stain on Your Asphalt, kitty litter, know-how, maryland, My Pavement Guy, oil stain, Parking lot, PTG Enterprises, stain removal, unsightly stain, wrong first impression
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Remove an Oil Stain on Your Asphalt
Wednesday, April 27th, 2011
Do you have some unused space in your yard? Do you enjoy playing the game of basketball, but do not have a court near your house? Well, have you ever considered having your very own asphalt basketball court installed? It is actually not as hard or expensive as you may think.
This article from eHow.com explains how you can have your own private basketball court in your backyard.
1. Rope off your desired area: The dimensions are up to you, but a standard high school half-court is 30 by 30 foot area. So that should be about as small as you want to go.
2. Dig up the area you laid off: Excavate 7 to 9 inches deep to allow room for the crushed rock and asphalt that you will need to lay. Remove large rocks, as these will create an uneven surface if left alone. Then, once the area is excavated and cleared of all debris, level out the area.
3. Cover your area with 4-6 inches of gravel: This will act as the base for your asphalt. Compact the gravel by rolling a weighted compaction tool over the entire area. If a weighted tool is not readily available, you can simply walk over the area yourself until it is properly compacted. Make sure there are no uneven spots – high or low – that will create an un-level playing surface.
4. Spread 2-3 inches of asphalt over the gravel: At this stage, it may be best to hire a professional to actually lay the asphalt. But if you do choose to do the work yourself, level out the asphalt so that it is even throughout the entire court. Compact the asphalt cover in the same manner as you compacted the gravel. Make sure the asphalt is level after it is compacted and allow it to dry fully.
5. Paint Your Court: You can purchase a stencil to make this part of the job easier.
6. Add the hoop: You can either use a simple portable basketball hoop or you can install am in-ground hoop that will remain in place.
7. Enjoy
If you have any questions, or if you would just like to leave the entire process up to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777or click here today!
Tags: Add the hoop, area is excavated and cleared of all debris, asphalt, asphalt maryland, base for your asphalt, Basketball, Basketball Court, Build your very own basketball court, Compact the gravel, Court, Cover your area with 4-6 inches of gravel, Dig up the area you laid off, dimensions, Excavate, hire a professional, How to, Installing You Very Own Asphalt Basketball Court, lay the asphalt, level out the area, My Pavement Guy, Paint Your Court, Private Basketball Court, private basketball court in your backyard, Professional, PTG Enterprises, Rope off your desired area, Spread 2-3 inches of asphalt over the gravel, standard high school half-court, weighted compaction tool
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Wednesday, April 6th, 2011
Warm-mix asphalt has been called the wave of the future, but what is it? Well, it is actually a generic term for several techniques used to reduce the temperature, by as much as 50 to 100 degrees, at which materials are mixed and placed on the road. This article from WarmMixAsphalt.com seeks to better explain this revolutionary new technology.
This drastic reduction in temperature has not only slashed fuel consumption, but it also reduced the production of greenhouse gasses, improving conditions for workers by cutting down on dangerous emissions. Warm-mix asphalt also allows for better asphalt compaction on the road, the ability to haul paving mix for longer distances, and the extension of the paving season.
But there are still several questions that must be answered before we crown warm-mix asphalt as the king of the road.
- Can warm-mix pavements be opened to traffic quickly after construction?
- What are the performance characteristics of these pavements?
- In the case of technologies developed in other countries, can they be adapted to the U.S., where climate conditions are often more extreme?
- If the production temperature is lower, does that mean that the binder does not age as much?
- Will the potential for thermal cracking be reduced?
- Will the potential for rutting be different?
- Will the contractor have to use a different grade of asphalt binder?
- What changes for the mix design procedure will be required?
- Will the performance-graded binder in a warm mix perform differently from pavements produced at higher temperature?
If you have any questions about warm-mix asphalt, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 443-463-1536 or click here today!
Tags: asphalt, Benefits, Better Working Condition, Characteristics, Climate, Conditions, Cracking, cut emissions, Cut greenhouse gasses, Degrees, King of the Road, Longer Pavement Season, Materials, Mixed, My Pavement Guy, New Tecnology, pavement, Pavement Season, PTG Enterprises, Reduce emissions, Reduce greenhouse gasses, Revolutionary, Revolutionary New technology, Road, Techniques, Temperature, Temperature reduction, The Benefits of Warm-mix Asphalt, Traffic, Warm-mix asphalt, Wave of the future
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on The Benefits of Warm-mix Asphalt
