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Posts Tagged ‘Asphalt Maintenance’
Thursday, October 20th, 2011
In order to keep your asphalt parking lot looking as nice as the day it was first installed, you will have to perform (or better yet, have a professional perform) periodic maintenance. Asphalt maintenance can be categorized into five areas: patch repair, asphalt overlay, inlay, pulverize in place and seal coating.
Patch Repair: This is the most common form of pavement maintenance and involves isolated areas of asphalt. The pavement is cut away from this area and is then replaced with fresh asphalt.
Asphalt Overlay: This affordable method of asphalt maintenance provides a new wearing surface of asphalt over your entire parking lot.
Inlay: This maintenance method is accomplished using milling machine, which removes a specified depth of existing asphalt and allows contractors to restore the parking surface to its pre-inlay elevation.
Pulverize in Place: Just like the Inlay method, Pulverize in Place utilizes a milling machine. But this method actually reduces your parking lot to base-rock-size particles. The resulting product can be graded like new base rock and the roadway reshaped to improve drainage.
Seal Coating: This process seals the asphalt, preventing moisture from penetrating the surface of the pavement and protecting the top layer of asphalt from oxidation and wear.
Seal coat should be applied to new pavement every 6 months to a year. After that, seal coat should be applied every 3-5 years.
If you have any additional questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
I can be your one stop “Pavement Guy”, for any pavement project regardless of size or scope. Give me the opportunity to impress you.
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Sources:
Asphalt Maintenance
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Asphalt Maintenance Overview (For Your Parking Lot)
Thursday, August 11th, 2011
Is your driveway in rough shape? Will repairs do the trick? Does it need to be resurfaced? Should you have it redone professionally? These are all questions that homeowners ask themselves when faced with a dilapidated driveway. Ultimately the best thing to do is the contact a professional like My Pavement Guy, but there are some things you can consider on your own.
According to this article on EzineArticles there are some important things to think about before consulting your contractor:
Maintenance is good medicine, but it’s not foolproof
Asphalt driveways don’t remain smooth and black forever. You can take steps to maintain your driveway by sealing and protecting it, but often the effects of heat, ultra-violet rays, and substances such as salt, oil, gas and grease take their toll. And if those don’t get you, then cracking and water penetration eventually will.
Your driveway may be corroded, worn out, or have cracks, which could all warrant a resurfacing job if the condition is severe enough. As a general guide, if repairs are needed on more than 25 percent of the surface, it is more cost-effective to do a hot mix asphalt resurfacing job over the entire driveway.
Say no to cracks!
Asphalt pavement is hard and brittle, and as a result, cracks will develop over time. Ranging from hairline to an inch wide or more, cracks are your driveway’s worst enemy because they let water in. In colder climates, freeze-thaw cycles can be very destructive, and can wreak havoc on your driveway if water penetrates the cracks, then expands as it turns to ice. And even in warmer climates, water penetration can cause serious damage. The larger the crack, the more serious the problem, and the sooner it needs to be fixed. Cracks that are left un-repaired will lead to serious deterioration of the pavement and even to the base layers, requiring complete replacement of the driveway – sooner rather than later in colder climates.
Can it be fixed or do you need a new driveway?
Whether you’ll need to rip out your existing driveway and install a new one, or if you can get away with resurfacing – or even some patchwork and crack-filling – depends largely on the condition of the base layers, or foundation. However, if cracking covers 3/4 of the driveway, the surface is too far gone to repair. The root of the problems may come from lower down, and a complete overhaul should be considered.
If your driveway has been resurfaced several times with hot mix asphalt and keeps deteriorating prematurely, it is likely a problem with the foundation, and you should consider installing a whole new driveway. Likewise, if there are areas that have depressions or mounds, they should be completely reconstructed from the base. If you have several of these areas, a new driveway might make sense.
For any of your asphalt needs or if you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Tags: asphalt, Asphalt cracks, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt Pavement, Asphalt repair, Cost, distress, driveway, driveway repair, expand, fill cracks, liquid asphalt, Maintenance, maryland, My Pavement Guy, pave, pavement, Pavement cracks, Pavement installation, Pavement Maintenance, Pavement Maryland, pavement repair, paving, paving contractor, paving maryland, paving project, Preventative maintenance, PTG Enterprises, re-striping pavement, repave, repaving
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Repair Your Old Asphalt Driveway
Thursday, June 30th, 2011
If you are thinking about having any surface re-paved – driveways, parking lots, roadways, airstrips – asphalt pavement is the way to go. Known for its durability and resilience, asphalt pavement is the best option for most all paved surfaces. If laid properly by a professional pavement company, asphalt pavement should last between 25 and 35 years. But what is asphalt pavement?
This article from PavemanPro.com explains.
Asphalt pavement is made up of a combination of stone (aggregate), sand, additives and liquid (petroleum) asphalt. This mixture is about 90% aggregate and sand and 10% asphalt. This combination forms a highly durable material that still maintains superior flexibility, allowing the surface to adapt to changing conditions produced by weather and the constantly changing surface beneath it. On top of its superior flexibility, asphalt pavement is also highly resistant to water, making it even more durable.
Steps involved in laying asphalt pavement:
1. Preparation: Unless the asphalt is being laid over existing asphalt (overlay), it is the preparation of the ground beneath the pavement that is the most influential factor in the life of an asphalt pavement surface. Proper clearing, excavation, ground compaction and base materials require a great deal of expertise. Base materials can be compacted stone and/or an asphalt base with it’s own unique recipe. Regardless, without proper groundwork the life of the paved surface is greatly reduced.
2. Spray a thin coat of liquid asphalt binder (hot tack) onto the surface using an asphalt distributor. This helps the newly paved surface create a greater bond between it and the surface beneath it.
3. Lay the asphalt pavement using an asphalt paver and compacted using asphalt rollers.
4. A minimum of 24 hours is required for the asphalt mix to solidify before it can be used. If enough time is not allowed for solidification, then it will result in poor a quality pavement.
5. Asphalt maintenance – including cracksealing, pothole patching and sealcoating – can all be used to protect and extend the life of the already long life cycle of asphalt pavement.
If you have any questions or if you think asphalt pavement might be right for your next project, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Why Asphalt Pavement?
Friday, June 24th, 2011
It’s a hole in the road. How hard can it be to fill a hole, right? Well, you might be surprised. Pothole repair is tough work and requires a trained crew and some specialty equipment. This article from PaveManPro.com explains the lengthy repair process.
How to repair a pothole:
1. With a pavement saw or pneumatic hammer, cut the outline of the patch, extending at least 0.3 m (I ft.) outside of the distressed area. The outline should be square or rectangular with two of the sides at right angles to the direction of traffic.
2. Excavate as much pavement as necessary to reach firm support. If a patch is to be an integral part of the pavement, its foundation must be as strong or stronger than that of the original roadway. This may mean that some of the sub-grade will also have to be removed. The faces of the excavation should be straight and vertical.
3. Trim and compact the sub-grade.
4. Apply a tack coat to the vertical faces of the excavation.
5. Backfill with the asphalt mixture. Using a shovel or skid steer loader place the mixture directly from the truck into the prepared excavation. The maximum lift thickness largely depends upon the type of asphalt mixture and the available compaction equipment. Asphalt concrete can and should be placed in deep lifts, since the greater heat retention of the thicker layers facilitates compaction. From a compaction standpoint, patches using asphalt concrete can be backfilled in one lift. However, when placing a patch that is deeper than 3 cm (5 in.) it is often useful to leave the first lift 2.5 to 5 cm (I to 2 in.) below the finished grade, making it easier to judge the total quantity of mixture required for the patch.
On the other hand, patches constructed with mixtures containing emulsified or cutback asphalt must be placed in layers thin enough to permit evaporation of the diluents that make the mixture workable.
6. Spread carefully to avoid segregation of the mixture. Avoid pulling the material from the center of the patch to the edges. If more material is needed at the edge, it should be deposited there, and the excess raked away. The amount of mixture used should be sufficient to ensure that the after compaction the patch surface will not be below that of the adjacent pavement. On the other hand, if too much material is used a hump will raise.
7. Compact each lift of the patch thoroughly. Use equipment that is suited for the size of the job. A vibratory plate compactor is excellent for small jobs, while a vibratory roller is likely to be more effective for larger areas. When compacting the final lift (which may be the only lift), overlap the first pass and return of the vibratory roller or plate compactor to no more than 5 cm (6 in.) on to the patch on one side. Then move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Once this is accomplished, proceed at right angles to the compacted edges, with each pass and return overlapping a few inches on to the uncompacted mix. If there is a grade, compaction should proceed from the low side to the high side to minimize possible shoving of the mix.
8. When adequate compaction equipment is used, the surface of the patch should be at the same elevation as the surrounding pavement. However, if hand tamping or other light compaction methods are used, the surface of the completed patch should be slightly higher than the adjacent pavement, since the patch is likely to be further compressed by traffic.
9. Check the vertical alignment and smoothness of the patch with a straightedge or string line.
So next time you complain about that pothole down the street not getting fixed or next time you think to yourself, “hey, I could do that in half the time,” remember that pothole repair is not a quick fix. Properly patching a pothole takes time, know-how, and a lot of energy.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Pothole Repair: It’s a Bigger Job Than You May Think
Wednesday, June 15th, 2011
It is so hard to find your father a descent present. After all, all you dad really wants for Father’s Day is some peace and quiet and a little relaxation. But how do you give him that?
In a recent poll done by Harris Interactive, 80% of fathers admitted they wanted gifts related to home improvement. So instead of buying dad another tie or some socks, get him something he really wants, a new driveway. Let your father relax as you have your driveway professionally re-paved.
And who better to do the work than PTG Enterprises, a company that has completed well over 2,000 driveway projects. They will deploy an entire team of professionals to quickly install your brand new driveway.
The paving machine, paired with an experienced operator and a trained crew, will make paving look easy – it’s not. Assuming fabric was not in the scope of work, than the paving team will have a man designated to either spray or spot apply tack coat material. Another ground personnel will be responsible for controlling the movement of trucks. It’s crucially important that the trucks stay in order and the next one up is always ready to go. The hotter the asphalt, the easier it is to work with, hence the longer a truck sits, the cooler the asphalt gets. The asphalt is dumped from the truck to the paver where two men control each side. One man is responsible to make sure the joint lines up with the previous paving pull and the other side is responsible for determining thickness, grade, pitch and fall. Accompanying the paver are usually two ground personnel known as “Lute men”. They take direction from the paving foreman and will spread / rake high and low spots out of areas that were just paved but need minor adjustments. Finally, there is the roller man. He is responsible for the compaction of the freshly laid asphalt. Usually this person will work the roller and also plate tampers and hand tampers in the tight areas where pavers cannot go.
So give your dad something he really wants this Father’s Day – a new, professionally installed driveway and some relaxation. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Thursday, June 2nd, 2011
Unfortunately, even the best pavement is not indestructible. Heavy traffic usage and weather changes, along with several other outside factors, can lead to pavement distress, which is noticeable physical damage on roads or sidewalks. If not dealt with quickly, pavement distress can lead to more serious problems, all of which can significantly shorten the lifespan of your pavement.
But how can you spot pavement distress in time? This article from eHow.com explains how you can quickly identify pavement distress.
1. Assess cracks on the surface of the pavement. Alligator cracking appears as a network of cracks, forming a pattern somewhat like the skin of an alligator or wonky squares. As the U.S. Department of Transportation outlines in its “Pavement Distress Identification Manual for the NPS Road Inventory Program, 2006 -2009,” the severity of the distress can be measured. It is considered low when the width of the crack is less than 1/4 inch in width. However, the alligator distress is serious when the cracks are more than 3/4 inch wide.
2. Check the pavement’s surface for long strips of cracking. These are ruts that run either along the length of the pavement or sideways across the surface. In places where the cracks are more than 3/4 inch in width, the distress is considered serious and can buckle the pavement, causing bumps. Hot weather can cause this type of pavement distress.
3. Identify gouged-out areas or dips on the surface of the road. Pavement distress is characterised by potholes. These are concave holes on the surface, which are a nuisance for drivers. The holes can cause punctures in tires, gather water and lead to further cracking.
4. Look for dark square or rectangular patches of asphalt on the pavement. Distress can be identified by finding discolored areas where potholes or previous distress marks have been filled or covered over. The replacement asphalt causes a dark patch to be seen. Cracking, ruts or potholes can often be seen in proximity to the patching, which is indicative of pavement distress.
5. Crouch down and look across the surface of the pavement. Identify two lines of depressions in the road’s surface. If these are in the direction of the wheel paths, this distress is called rutting. Rutting occurs when continuous use of the pavement by heavy vehicles causes the surface to sink. It is classified as severe when the depressions are greater than 1 inch below the surface of the pavement.
Once you have identified pavement distress, it is time to repair the damage. There are several products available that allow you to do the job yourself, but if you want to ensure your pavement is properly fixed, it is probably best to call a professional.
If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Identify Pavement Distress
Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
After Concrete is laid, the inevitable settling, shifting and moving will occur. But in extreme cases, when the ground settles below the concrete or when a tree root comes into contact with the pavement, walkways or patios can break and lift. These unsightly blemishes on your otherwise pristine concrete surface can ruin the entire look and feel of your patio or walkway. And with Memorial Day right around the corner, you are going to want your home to look perfect for your guests.
This article from eHow.com provides 4 ways in which you can quickly repair that broken and lifted concrete.
Instructions
1. The easiest way to repair lifting concrete pavement is to grind it down. Most driveways are at least 6″ thick by code, so there should be sufficient grinding depth. Walkways and patios are 3″ – 4″ in thickness. Renting a scarifier is probably the most practical way to do this yourself. This is not an easy machine to use, so if you are not comfortable with the job, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.
2. If the lifting is the result of tree root growth, you will have to grind your cement down repetitively as the roots will continue to push the concrete up. A better solution is to remove the concrete pavement all together, cut out the offending root(s) and re-pour the cement.
3. A quick fix would be to fill in the ‘step’ created by the raised concrete with a cement adhesive and concrete/polymer fill. Even if you carefully rough up the lower cement, this ramp-like fix will only be a temporary patch at best. It will chip away fairly quickly, especially on a driveway pavement with heavy traffic.
4. Better left to the professionals, you can float a slab of concrete that has sunk into the ground by drilling holes and pumping in a cement mix. This will literally float the slab back up with the pressure of the concrete beneath.
Now you can enjoy your Memorial Day barbeque without having to hear, “What happened to your patio!?” at least 50 times. If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Repairing Lifted Concrete
Wednesday, May 18th, 2011
Pavement ants, also known as house ants or sugar ants, can be quite a nuisance. They set up camp in your yard or inside the cracks in your pavement and eventually work their way into your home. The best thing to do when you find pavement ants is to rid yourself of the infestation as soon as possible.
But how can you do that? You are no exterminator and you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store to buy ant spray, right? Well, you can use one household item to help assist you in your quest for an ant free existence – salt.
That’s right, all you need is everyday salt. This article from eHow.com explains several solutions to rid yourself of those pesky pavement ants using nothing but common table salt.
1. Sprinkle ordinary table salt on cracks in the driveway, along the sides and where the ants are present. Make sure the driveway and surrounding areas are dry before applying salt for the best effectiveness.
2. Repeat weekly until the ants are gone. After consuming the salt, the ants will drink water or other moisture until they essentially explode. Be aware that the salt will also kill any weeds or plants present, so use caution.
3. Draw a line with salt at the end of the driveway on the pavement to prevent the ants from crossing over into the lawn or home.
4. If table salt is not effective, purchase a sweet ant bait trap that contains boric acid salt. (Boric acid is a hydroponic salt.) The ants are attracted to the sugar in the bait, consume the boric acid salt with the sugar, and then take the poison back to their home, where it spreads to the other ants.
5. Place the ant baits along the sides and ends of the driveway. Use caution when using ant baits because boric acid can be toxic to pets and humans as well as insects.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Wednesday, May 11th, 2011
There are several factors working against your asphalt driveway – heat, sun, oils and everyday wear and tear – that will, over time, slowly deteriorate your parking surface. So if you don’t want your driveway to crumble around you, you need to constantly maintain your asphalt.
This article from eHow.com outlines 6 easy steps to keep your asphalt driveway looking like new.
1. First, take good care of your driveway throughout the years. Keep grass clippings off of it by sweeping after every time you mow your lawn. The seeds in the clippings can find their way into tiny cracks in your asphalt and sprout grass. Not only is it an eyesore, it can make the cracks even larger. As soon as you see any weeds growing in a crack or hole in your driveway, spray it with weed killer so the crack doesn’t get larger. Also remember to clean up any substance from your asphalt driveway as soon as possible. If you have oil leaks or something of the like that is puddling in your driveway, take the time to clean it up with a little soap and water. These are all good steps in caring for your asphalt driveway.
2. Once every 2-3 years you will want to reseal your driveway. This is what’s going to make the biggest difference in the appearance of your driveway. Resealing is actually just putting a very thin new layer of asphalt on top of the existing driveway. Visit your home and garden retailer of choice to find the products listed in the “items needed” section such as the crack filler, squeegee, and sealant.
3. Plan to reseal on a warm day when it’s about 50 degrees or a bit warmer. Also plan to NOT use your driveway for 24-48 hours after application. Once you’ve moved all the cars off of the driveway, trim any grass at the edges of your driveway back. Now you’ll have to clean your driveway’s cracks and holes. You can use household cleaners, or, if you have a power washer, it’s much easier to use the power washer along with a driveway cleaner/degreaser you can find at places such as Lowe’s or Home Depot. Let the entire driveway dry thoroughly before moving on.
4. Now, fill any cracks or holes you may currently have in your driveway with an asphalt crack filler. Follow the directions on the particular bottle you choose, some work differently than others. Allow the patch to dry for 24 hours (or whatever your product recommends).
5. The next day, sweep the driveway. Now sweep again with someone else helping by washing the driveway alongside you with a hose. It’s very important for the driveway to be clean of all dirt and particles – even in the small cracks. Now use the power washer and driveway cleaner (or your choice of household cleaner) again, but this time all over the driveway. You may need to scrub severe oil stains with a brush. Let it dry.
6. Apply the driveway sealer (usually comes in a 5 gallon bucket) in thin coats. Use the squeegee to apply in a thin layer. It’s better to do two very thin layers than one thick layer. Keep stirring the sealer in the bucket throughout the process. Remember to check your particular product for specific requirements (some need water misted on it, etc). Now block your driveway off and don’t touch it for 24-48 hours.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 1 Comment »
Wednesday, May 4th, 2011
If you have ever had an oil stain on your asphalt driveway or parking lot, you know just how much these eyesores can detract from the beauty of your home or office. You do not want to send the wrong first impression to your guests/clients, so it is very important to address these issues when they first arise.
This article from eHow.com provides a step-by-step breakdown of the stain removal process. With just a little know-how and some elbow grease, you can be stain free in no time.
How to remove that unsightly stain:
1. Cover the entire oil stain with a large amount of kitty litter.
2. Allow the kitty litter to remain on the oil stain overnight.
3. Sweep the kitty litter with a broom. Use a dustpan to collect the used kitty litter and place it into a trash bag.
4. Pour 4 cups of baking soda onto the oil-stained concrete.
5. Add a small amount of water from a garden hose. Use just enough water to form a thick paste.
6. Use a stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained concrete.
7. Allow the paste to remain on the stained concrete overnight.
8. Add a small amount of water to the paste from a garden hose. Use just enough water to moisten the dried baking soda paste.
9. Use the stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained area.
10. Rinse away the remains of the paste with water from the garden hose.
11. Repeat the process if needed if the oil stain remains after the concrete has dried.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
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