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Archive for the ‘General Asphalt Advice’ Category
Friday, June 24th, 2011
It’s a hole in the road. How hard can it be to fill a hole, right? Well, you might be surprised. Pothole repair is tough work and requires a trained crew and some specialty equipment. This article from PaveManPro.com explains the lengthy repair process.
How to repair a pothole:
1. With a pavement saw or pneumatic hammer, cut the outline of the patch, extending at least 0.3 m (I ft.) outside of the distressed area. The outline should be square or rectangular with two of the sides at right angles to the direction of traffic.
2. Excavate as much pavement as necessary to reach firm support. If a patch is to be an integral part of the pavement, its foundation must be as strong or stronger than that of the original roadway. This may mean that some of the sub-grade will also have to be removed. The faces of the excavation should be straight and vertical.
3. Trim and compact the sub-grade.
4. Apply a tack coat to the vertical faces of the excavation.
5. Backfill with the asphalt mixture. Using a shovel or skid steer loader place the mixture directly from the truck into the prepared excavation. The maximum lift thickness largely depends upon the type of asphalt mixture and the available compaction equipment. Asphalt concrete can and should be placed in deep lifts, since the greater heat retention of the thicker layers facilitates compaction. From a compaction standpoint, patches using asphalt concrete can be backfilled in one lift. However, when placing a patch that is deeper than 3 cm (5 in.) it is often useful to leave the first lift 2.5 to 5 cm (I to 2 in.) below the finished grade, making it easier to judge the total quantity of mixture required for the patch.
On the other hand, patches constructed with mixtures containing emulsified or cutback asphalt must be placed in layers thin enough to permit evaporation of the diluents that make the mixture workable.
6. Spread carefully to avoid segregation of the mixture. Avoid pulling the material from the center of the patch to the edges. If more material is needed at the edge, it should be deposited there, and the excess raked away. The amount of mixture used should be sufficient to ensure that the after compaction the patch surface will not be below that of the adjacent pavement. On the other hand, if too much material is used a hump will raise.
7. Compact each lift of the patch thoroughly. Use equipment that is suited for the size of the job. A vibratory plate compactor is excellent for small jobs, while a vibratory roller is likely to be more effective for larger areas. When compacting the final lift (which may be the only lift), overlap the first pass and return of the vibratory roller or plate compactor to no more than 5 cm (6 in.) on to the patch on one side. Then move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Once this is accomplished, proceed at right angles to the compacted edges, with each pass and return overlapping a few inches on to the uncompacted mix. If there is a grade, compaction should proceed from the low side to the high side to minimize possible shoving of the mix.
8. When adequate compaction equipment is used, the surface of the patch should be at the same elevation as the surrounding pavement. However, if hand tamping or other light compaction methods are used, the surface of the completed patch should be slightly higher than the adjacent pavement, since the patch is likely to be further compressed by traffic.
9. Check the vertical alignment and smoothness of the patch with a straightedge or string line.
So next time you complain about that pothole down the street not getting fixed or next time you think to yourself, “hey, I could do that in half the time,” remember that pothole repair is not a quick fix. Properly patching a pothole takes time, know-how, and a lot of energy.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Wednesday, June 15th, 2011
It is so hard to find your father a descent present. After all, all you dad really wants for Father’s Day is some peace and quiet and a little relaxation. But how do you give him that?
In a recent poll done by Harris Interactive, 80% of fathers admitted they wanted gifts related to home improvement. So instead of buying dad another tie or some socks, get him something he really wants, a new driveway. Let your father relax as you have your driveway professionally re-paved.
And who better to do the work than PTG Enterprises, a company that has completed well over 2,000 driveway projects. They will deploy an entire team of professionals to quickly install your brand new driveway.
The paving machine, paired with an experienced operator and a trained crew, will make paving look easy – it’s not. Assuming fabric was not in the scope of work, than the paving team will have a man designated to either spray or spot apply tack coat material. Another ground personnel will be responsible for controlling the movement of trucks. It’s crucially important that the trucks stay in order and the next one up is always ready to go. The hotter the asphalt, the easier it is to work with, hence the longer a truck sits, the cooler the asphalt gets. The asphalt is dumped from the truck to the paver where two men control each side. One man is responsible to make sure the joint lines up with the previous paving pull and the other side is responsible for determining thickness, grade, pitch and fall. Accompanying the paver are usually two ground personnel known as “Lute men”. They take direction from the paving foreman and will spread / rake high and low spots out of areas that were just paved but need minor adjustments. Finally, there is the roller man. He is responsible for the compaction of the freshly laid asphalt. Usually this person will work the roller and also plate tampers and hand tampers in the tight areas where pavers cannot go.
So give your dad something he really wants this Father’s Day – a new, professionally installed driveway and some relaxation. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Tuesday, June 7th, 2011
If you are going to put up the money to install a brand new driveway, or if you are just unhappy with the way your current driveway looks, why not try to add a few accents to make your driveway really standout? It is a lot easier than you may think. As this article from eHow.com explains, there are several ways you can turn that boring driveway into the perfect an eye-catching addition to any front yard.
- If you have a long driveway, make it curved instead of a straight line. Installing curves in the driveway to follow the natural contours of your yard can also soften the appearance.
- Place stone or brick edging along the edge of the driveway. This will add the perfect accent to your driveway.
- Install flower beds along the edge of the driveway. This forms a natural boundary between the driveway and the lawn, and planting flowers can brighten the driveway with an array of colors.
- Plant trees along the edge of the driveway. This works better for longer driveways because you have more space to plant trees. One drawback is that it will be years before the trees are fully grown, but once grown the trees provide a shaded canopy over the driveway. Anytime you plant trees near pavement, place them far enough from the pavement that the root system will not grow underneath the pavement and dislodge it.
- Install lighting along the driveway. While this doesn’t do anything to soften the appearance of the driveway during the day, it can provide dramatic effects at night. The lighting can be as simple as a post light near the end of the driveway or as complex as lights placed in trees along the driveway that cast their glow down onto the driveway. Another option is to place path lights along the edge of the driveway. Using many lights can provide a runway effect; using a few path lights spaced far apart can mark the edge of the driveway without making you feel like you’re landing a 737 in front of your house.
Now that you know what to do, you can go liven up your front yard. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Thursday, June 2nd, 2011
Unfortunately, even the best pavement is not indestructible. Heavy traffic usage and weather changes, along with several other outside factors, can lead to pavement distress, which is noticeable physical damage on roads or sidewalks. If not dealt with quickly, pavement distress can lead to more serious problems, all of which can significantly shorten the lifespan of your pavement.
But how can you spot pavement distress in time? This article from eHow.com explains how you can quickly identify pavement distress.
1. Assess cracks on the surface of the pavement. Alligator cracking appears as a network of cracks, forming a pattern somewhat like the skin of an alligator or wonky squares. As the U.S. Department of Transportation outlines in its “Pavement Distress Identification Manual for the NPS Road Inventory Program, 2006 -2009,” the severity of the distress can be measured. It is considered low when the width of the crack is less than 1/4 inch in width. However, the alligator distress is serious when the cracks are more than 3/4 inch wide.
2. Check the pavement’s surface for long strips of cracking. These are ruts that run either along the length of the pavement or sideways across the surface. In places where the cracks are more than 3/4 inch in width, the distress is considered serious and can buckle the pavement, causing bumps. Hot weather can cause this type of pavement distress.
3. Identify gouged-out areas or dips on the surface of the road. Pavement distress is characterised by potholes. These are concave holes on the surface, which are a nuisance for drivers. The holes can cause punctures in tires, gather water and lead to further cracking.
4. Look for dark square or rectangular patches of asphalt on the pavement. Distress can be identified by finding discolored areas where potholes or previous distress marks have been filled or covered over. The replacement asphalt causes a dark patch to be seen. Cracking, ruts or potholes can often be seen in proximity to the patching, which is indicative of pavement distress.
5. Crouch down and look across the surface of the pavement. Identify two lines of depressions in the road’s surface. If these are in the direction of the wheel paths, this distress is called rutting. Rutting occurs when continuous use of the pavement by heavy vehicles causes the surface to sink. It is classified as severe when the depressions are greater than 1 inch below the surface of the pavement.
Once you have identified pavement distress, it is time to repair the damage. There are several products available that allow you to do the job yourself, but if you want to ensure your pavement is properly fixed, it is probably best to call a professional.
If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
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Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
After Concrete is laid, the inevitable settling, shifting and moving will occur. But in extreme cases, when the ground settles below the concrete or when a tree root comes into contact with the pavement, walkways or patios can break and lift. These unsightly blemishes on your otherwise pristine concrete surface can ruin the entire look and feel of your patio or walkway. And with Memorial Day right around the corner, you are going to want your home to look perfect for your guests.
This article from eHow.com provides 4 ways in which you can quickly repair that broken and lifted concrete.
Instructions
1. The easiest way to repair lifting concrete pavement is to grind it down. Most driveways are at least 6″ thick by code, so there should be sufficient grinding depth. Walkways and patios are 3″ – 4″ in thickness. Renting a scarifier is probably the most practical way to do this yourself. This is not an easy machine to use, so if you are not comfortable with the job, don’t hesitate to call in a professional.
2. If the lifting is the result of tree root growth, you will have to grind your cement down repetitively as the roots will continue to push the concrete up. A better solution is to remove the concrete pavement all together, cut out the offending root(s) and re-pour the cement.
3. A quick fix would be to fill in the ‘step’ created by the raised concrete with a cement adhesive and concrete/polymer fill. Even if you carefully rough up the lower cement, this ramp-like fix will only be a temporary patch at best. It will chip away fairly quickly, especially on a driveway pavement with heavy traffic.
4. Better left to the professionals, you can float a slab of concrete that has sunk into the ground by drilling holes and pumping in a cement mix. This will literally float the slab back up with the pressure of the concrete beneath.
Now you can enjoy your Memorial Day barbeque without having to hear, “What happened to your patio!?” at least 50 times. If you have any questions or if you would rather leave the repair work to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Wednesday, May 18th, 2011
Pavement ants, also known as house ants or sugar ants, can be quite a nuisance. They set up camp in your yard or inside the cracks in your pavement and eventually work their way into your home. The best thing to do when you find pavement ants is to rid yourself of the infestation as soon as possible.
But how can you do that? You are no exterminator and you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store to buy ant spray, right? Well, you can use one household item to help assist you in your quest for an ant free existence – salt.
That’s right, all you need is everyday salt. This article from eHow.com explains several solutions to rid yourself of those pesky pavement ants using nothing but common table salt.
1. Sprinkle ordinary table salt on cracks in the driveway, along the sides and where the ants are present. Make sure the driveway and surrounding areas are dry before applying salt for the best effectiveness.
2. Repeat weekly until the ants are gone. After consuming the salt, the ants will drink water or other moisture until they essentially explode. Be aware that the salt will also kill any weeds or plants present, so use caution.
3. Draw a line with salt at the end of the driveway on the pavement to prevent the ants from crossing over into the lawn or home.
4. If table salt is not effective, purchase a sweet ant bait trap that contains boric acid salt. (Boric acid is a hydroponic salt.) The ants are attracted to the sugar in the bait, consume the boric acid salt with the sugar, and then take the poison back to their home, where it spreads to the other ants.
5. Place the ant baits along the sides and ends of the driveway. Use caution when using ant baits because boric acid can be toxic to pets and humans as well as insects.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Wednesday, May 11th, 2011
There are several factors working against your asphalt driveway – heat, sun, oils and everyday wear and tear – that will, over time, slowly deteriorate your parking surface. So if you don’t want your driveway to crumble around you, you need to constantly maintain your asphalt.
This article from eHow.com outlines 6 easy steps to keep your asphalt driveway looking like new.
1. First, take good care of your driveway throughout the years. Keep grass clippings off of it by sweeping after every time you mow your lawn. The seeds in the clippings can find their way into tiny cracks in your asphalt and sprout grass. Not only is it an eyesore, it can make the cracks even larger. As soon as you see any weeds growing in a crack or hole in your driveway, spray it with weed killer so the crack doesn’t get larger. Also remember to clean up any substance from your asphalt driveway as soon as possible. If you have oil leaks or something of the like that is puddling in your driveway, take the time to clean it up with a little soap and water. These are all good steps in caring for your asphalt driveway.
2. Once every 2-3 years you will want to reseal your driveway. This is what’s going to make the biggest difference in the appearance of your driveway. Resealing is actually just putting a very thin new layer of asphalt on top of the existing driveway. Visit your home and garden retailer of choice to find the products listed in the “items needed” section such as the crack filler, squeegee, and sealant.
3. Plan to reseal on a warm day when it’s about 50 degrees or a bit warmer. Also plan to NOT use your driveway for 24-48 hours after application. Once you’ve moved all the cars off of the driveway, trim any grass at the edges of your driveway back. Now you’ll have to clean your driveway’s cracks and holes. You can use household cleaners, or, if you have a power washer, it’s much easier to use the power washer along with a driveway cleaner/degreaser you can find at places such as Lowe’s or Home Depot. Let the entire driveway dry thoroughly before moving on.
4. Now, fill any cracks or holes you may currently have in your driveway with an asphalt crack filler. Follow the directions on the particular bottle you choose, some work differently than others. Allow the patch to dry for 24 hours (or whatever your product recommends).
5. The next day, sweep the driveway. Now sweep again with someone else helping by washing the driveway alongside you with a hose. It’s very important for the driveway to be clean of all dirt and particles – even in the small cracks. Now use the power washer and driveway cleaner (or your choice of household cleaner) again, but this time all over the driveway. You may need to scrub severe oil stains with a brush. Let it dry.
6. Apply the driveway sealer (usually comes in a 5 gallon bucket) in thin coats. Use the squeegee to apply in a thin layer. It’s better to do two very thin layers than one thick layer. Keep stirring the sealer in the bucket throughout the process. Remember to check your particular product for specific requirements (some need water misted on it, etc). Now block your driveway off and don’t touch it for 24-48 hours.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 1 Comment »
Wednesday, May 4th, 2011
If you have ever had an oil stain on your asphalt driveway or parking lot, you know just how much these eyesores can detract from the beauty of your home or office. You do not want to send the wrong first impression to your guests/clients, so it is very important to address these issues when they first arise.
This article from eHow.com provides a step-by-step breakdown of the stain removal process. With just a little know-how and some elbow grease, you can be stain free in no time.
How to remove that unsightly stain:
1. Cover the entire oil stain with a large amount of kitty litter.
2. Allow the kitty litter to remain on the oil stain overnight.
3. Sweep the kitty litter with a broom. Use a dustpan to collect the used kitty litter and place it into a trash bag.
4. Pour 4 cups of baking soda onto the oil-stained concrete.
5. Add a small amount of water from a garden hose. Use just enough water to form a thick paste.
6. Use a stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained concrete.
7. Allow the paste to remain on the stained concrete overnight.
8. Add a small amount of water to the paste from a garden hose. Use just enough water to moisten the dried baking soda paste.
9. Use the stiff-bristle scrub brush to scrub the paste into the stained area.
10. Rinse away the remains of the paste with water from the garden hose.
11. Repeat the process if needed if the oil stain remains after the concrete has dried.
If this does not help, it may be time to consult a professional. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here today!
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Wednesday, April 27th, 2011
Do you have some unused space in your yard? Do you enjoy playing the game of basketball, but do not have a court near your house? Well, have you ever considered having your very own asphalt basketball court installed? It is actually not as hard or expensive as you may think.
This article from eHow.com explains how you can have your own private basketball court in your backyard.
1. Rope off your desired area: The dimensions are up to you, but a standard high school half-court is 30 by 30 foot area. So that should be about as small as you want to go.
2. Dig up the area you laid off: Excavate 7 to 9 inches deep to allow room for the crushed rock and asphalt that you will need to lay. Remove large rocks, as these will create an uneven surface if left alone. Then, once the area is excavated and cleared of all debris, level out the area.
3. Cover your area with 4-6 inches of gravel: This will act as the base for your asphalt. Compact the gravel by rolling a weighted compaction tool over the entire area. If a weighted tool is not readily available, you can simply walk over the area yourself until it is properly compacted. Make sure there are no uneven spots – high or low – that will create an un-level playing surface.
4. Spread 2-3 inches of asphalt over the gravel: At this stage, it may be best to hire a professional to actually lay the asphalt. But if you do choose to do the work yourself, level out the asphalt so that it is even throughout the entire court. Compact the asphalt cover in the same manner as you compacted the gravel. Make sure the asphalt is level after it is compacted and allow it to dry fully.
5. Paint Your Court: You can purchase a stencil to make this part of the job easier.
6. Add the hoop: You can either use a simple portable basketball hoop or you can install am in-ground hoop that will remain in place.
7. Enjoy
If you have any questions, or if you would just like to leave the entire process up to the professionals, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777or click here today!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | 3 Comments »
Friday, April 22nd, 2011
It is time to resurface your driveway, but you have no idea where to start. Who do you call? What do you need to know? What are your options? At least picking the materials is easy, right; isn’t concrete your only choice? Actually, there is another option – asphalt.
This article from DoItYourself.com explains the four biggest benefits of asphalt driveways over concrete.
1. Weather Resistance
Unlike concrete, asphalt can expand and contract in harsh climates without breaking or cracking. So if you live in an area with extremely cold winters or hot summers, then asphalt might be a no-brainer for your home.
2. Flexible Material
Asphalt has the ability to expand slightly while under pressure or in high or low temperatures. Asphalt has the capacity to adjust and settle, move and expand and contract and conform – meaning less cracking than a rigid concrete driveway.
3. Ease of Repair
Even if your asphalt driveways does crack or settle in an unpleasing way, repairs could not be easier. Refill and level these depressions easily with liquid asphalt emulsions. Fix cracks quickly with a solid cold patch, or tar mixed with fine gravel.
4. Cost
If the first three benefits did not sway your opinion, then this last one will certainly make you an asphalt enthusiast. Asphalt driveways are initially cheaper than concrete driveways and they even take less time to install. They are also resistant to oils and other stains, making asphalt driveways cheaper to maintain.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777or click here today!
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