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Posts Tagged ‘distress’
Thursday, August 11th, 2011
Is your driveway in rough shape? Will repairs do the trick? Does it need to be resurfaced? Should you have it redone professionally? These are all questions that homeowners ask themselves when faced with a dilapidated driveway. Ultimately the best thing to do is the contact a professional like My Pavement Guy, but there are some things you can consider on your own.
According to this article on EzineArticles there are some important things to think about before consulting your contractor:
Maintenance is good medicine, but it’s not foolproof
Asphalt driveways don’t remain smooth and black forever. You can take steps to maintain your driveway by sealing and protecting it, but often the effects of heat, ultra-violet rays, and substances such as salt, oil, gas and grease take their toll. And if those don’t get you, then cracking and water penetration eventually will.
Your driveway may be corroded, worn out, or have cracks, which could all warrant a resurfacing job if the condition is severe enough. As a general guide, if repairs are needed on more than 25 percent of the surface, it is more cost-effective to do a hot mix asphalt resurfacing job over the entire driveway.
Say no to cracks!
Asphalt pavement is hard and brittle, and as a result, cracks will develop over time. Ranging from hairline to an inch wide or more, cracks are your driveway’s worst enemy because they let water in. In colder climates, freeze-thaw cycles can be very destructive, and can wreak havoc on your driveway if water penetrates the cracks, then expands as it turns to ice. And even in warmer climates, water penetration can cause serious damage. The larger the crack, the more serious the problem, and the sooner it needs to be fixed. Cracks that are left un-repaired will lead to serious deterioration of the pavement and even to the base layers, requiring complete replacement of the driveway – sooner rather than later in colder climates.
Can it be fixed or do you need a new driveway?
Whether you’ll need to rip out your existing driveway and install a new one, or if you can get away with resurfacing – or even some patchwork and crack-filling – depends largely on the condition of the base layers, or foundation. However, if cracking covers 3/4 of the driveway, the surface is too far gone to repair. The root of the problems may come from lower down, and a complete overhaul should be considered.
If your driveway has been resurfaced several times with hot mix asphalt and keeps deteriorating prematurely, it is likely a problem with the foundation, and you should consider installing a whole new driveway. Likewise, if there are areas that have depressions or mounds, they should be completely reconstructed from the base. If you have several of these areas, a new driveway might make sense.
For any of your asphalt needs or if you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: asphalt, Asphalt cracks, Asphalt driveway, Asphalt installation, Asphalt Maintenance, asphalt maryland, Asphalt Pavement, Asphalt repair, Cost, distress, driveway, driveway repair, expand, fill cracks, liquid asphalt, Maintenance, maryland, My Pavement Guy, pave, pavement, Pavement cracks, Pavement installation, Pavement Maintenance, Pavement Maryland, pavement repair, paving, paving contractor, paving maryland, paving project, Preventative maintenance, PTG Enterprises, re-striping pavement, repave, repaving
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on How to Repair Your Old Asphalt Driveway
Thursday, July 28th, 2011
Your pavement will eventually fail. It doesn’t matter how well you maintain your paved surface, it will eventually deteriorate and crack. However, how you deal with those cracks will determine how long your pavement will last. Sealing and/or filling cracks in existing pavement is the single the most effective procedure that can be performed to extend pavement’s lifecycle. This will prevent water and other foreign materials – sand, dirt, et.c – from seeping down into the asphalt where it can cause major distress and failures by weakening the base and sub-base.
This article from PaveManPro.com explains how filling or sealing pavement cracks is the most cost effective way to extend the life of your asphalt pavement.
Crack filling and crack sealing, while similar in nature, offer very different benefits.
Crack filling is less costly and will require less initial investment, but this solution may only be a temporary fix. Once the crack begins to move or expand, the crack filling material will lose its effectiveness and the crack will need to be re-filled. For this reason, crack filling is more effective in milder climates with less temperature change.
Crack filling materials include liquid asphalt, asphalt emulsions and cutbacks.
Crack sealing is a more costly option, but provides a longer life expectancy than crack filling – lasting 8 years or more. Crack sealing – which utilizes a flexible, specially prepared hot pour rubberized sealant – is considered a permanent treatment and is the only effective treatment for active cracks that contract and expand between seasons.
Crack sealing materials include asphalt rubber, rubberized asphalt, low-modulus rubberized asphalt and self-leveling silicone.
So explain your situation and budget to your pavement specialist and come up with a solution that meets your needs and your budget. If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Crack Sealing versus Crack Filling
Thursday, July 21st, 2011
Even the most durable paved surfaces, like asphalt pavement, are susceptible to deterioration, distress, and cracking. However, knowing what causes these problems can help you prolong the life of your asphalt. This article from PaveManPro.com can help. It outlines the major causes of pavement deterioration.
Overtime, the materials that make up asphalt begin to break down and become more easily affected by the elements: rain, sunlight, snow, etc. Furthermore, the liquid binder that holds the asphalt together begins to lose its natural resistance to water, allowing liquid to seep into the pavement. Once this happens, the surface can quickly be affected.
Yet, while pavement will naturally breakdown over time, there are a few outside factors – poor construction or human error – that may speed up this process, causing premature deterioration.
The factors leading to asphalt deterioration include:
• Insufficient or improperly compacted base below the asphalt
• Over or under compaction of asphalt
• Improper temperature of asphalt when applied
• Poor drainage
• Water – over time and especially without proper maintenance water penetrates the asphalt, washes out the base underneath it, causing it to crack, break down and collapse.
• Sunlight – Oxidation breaks down and dries out the once flexible liquid asphalt that holds the aggregate together. This causes raveling and shrinking cracks, which allow water to penetrate beneath the surface.
• Chemical/ petroleum exposure – the introduction of chemicals to asphalt, including gas and oil, can soften the asphalt and cause it to break down more rapidly.
When asphalt pavement is constructed and maintained properly it wears out slowly and can last up to 25 years or more. Proper maintenance is key to protecting it from the external factors that wear it out.
If you notice your driveway, parking lot, or any pavement displaying any signs of deterioration, it is probably time to call a professional to patch your asphalt and prevent further damage. Do not put this off and let small cracks become big problems. It is far better to pay for a little patching now than to have to pay for a total re-paving down the road.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: affected by the elements, aggregate t, asphalt, Asphalt Pavement, break down a, Causes, Chemical, Cracking, Cracks, Damage, deterioration, distress, driveway, Durable, external factors, factors, flexible liquid asphalt, human error, Improper temperature of asphalt, improperly compacted base, Insuffieciently compacted base, liquid binder, maintained properly, Maintenance, Major causes, major causes of pavement deterioration, Materials, materials that make up asphalt, My Pavement Guy, Over compaction of asphalt, Oxidation, Parking lot, patch your asphalt, patching, Paved, paved surfaces, pavement, pavement deterioration, pavement will naturally breakdown over time, Petroleum Exposure, poor construction, Poor drainage, premature deterioration, Prevent further damage, Problems, Professional, proper maintenance, PTG Enterprises, Rain, Raveling, Re-paving, resistance to water, Road, Shrinking cracks, signs of deterioration, Snow, sunlight, The Deterioration of Asphalt Pavement and its Causes, under compaction of asphalt, Water, what causes these problems
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on The Deterioration of Asphalt Pavement and its Causes
Thursday, July 14th, 2011
It is a well-known fact that water and asphalt do not mix. Harsh weather can cause asphalt to become distressed, crack, and eventually fail. This article from PaveManPro.com outlines the 13 ways in which weather adversely affects your pavement.
1. Alligator Cracking: Alligator cracking is a load associated structural failure. The failure can be due to weakness in the surface, base or sub grade; a surface or base that is too thin; poor drainage or the combination of all three. It often starts in the wheel path as longitudinal cracking and ends up as alligator cracking after severe distress.
2. Block Cracking: Block cracks look like large interconnected rectangles (roughly). Block cracking is not load-associated, but generally caused by shrinkage of the asphalt pavement due to an inability of asphalt binder to expand and contract with temperature cycles. This can be because the mix was mixed and placed too dry; Fine aggregate mix with low penetration asphalt & absorptive aggregates; poor choice of asphalt binder in the mix design; or aging dried out asphalt.
3. Longitudinal (Linear) Cracking: Longitudinal cracking are cracks that are parallel to the pavements centerline or laydown direction. These can be a result of both pavement fatigue, reflective cracking, and/or poor joint construction. Joints are generally the least dense areas of a pavement.
4. Transverse Cracking: Transverse cracks are single cracks perpendicular to the pavement’s centerline or laydown direction. Transverse cracks can be caused by reflective cracks from an underlying layer, daily temperature cycles, and poor construction due to improper operation of the paver.
5. Edge Cracks: Edge Cracks travel along the inside edge of a pavement surface within one or two feet. The most common cause for this type of crack is poor drainage conditions and lack of support at the pavement edge. As a result underlying base materials settle and become weakened. Heavy vegetation along the pavement edge and heavy traffic can also be the instigator of edge cracking.
6. Joint Reflection Cracks: These are cracks in a flexible pavement overlay of a rigid pavement (i.e., asphalt over concrete). They occur directly over the underlying rigid pavement joints. Joint reflection cracking does not include reflection cracks that occur away from an underlying joint or from any other type of base (e.g., cement or lime stabilized).
7. Slippage Cracks: Slippage cracks are crescent-shaped cracks or tears in the surface layer(s) of asphalt where the new material has slipped over the underlying course. This problem is caused by a lack of bonding between layers. This is often because a tack coat was not used to develop a bond between the asphalt layers or because a prime coat was not used to bond the asphalt to the underlying stone base course. The lack of bond can be also caused by dirt, oil, or other contaminants preventing adhesion between the layers.
8. Pot Holes: Small, bowl-shaped depressions in the pavement surface that penetrate all the way through the asphalt layer down to the base course. They generally have sharp edges and vertical sides near the top of the hole. Potholes are the result of moisture infiltration and usually the end result of untreated alligator cracking. As alligator cracking becomes severe, the interconnected cracks create small chunks of pavement, which can be dislodged as vehicles drive over them. The remaining hole after the pavement chunk is dislodged is called a pothole.
9. Depressions (bird baths): Depressions are localized pavement surface areas with slightly lower elevations than the surrounding pavement. Depressions are very noticeable after a rain when they fill with water.
10. Rutting: Ruts in asphalt pavements are channelized depressions in the wheel-tracks. Rutting results from consolidation or lateral movement of any of the pavement layers or the subgrade under traffic. It is caused by insufficient pavement thickness; lack of compaction of the asphalt, stone base or soil; weak asphalt mixes; or moisture infiltration.
11. Shoving: Shoving is the formation of ripples across a pavement. This characteristic shape is why this type of distress is sometimes called wash-boarding. Shoving occurs at locations having severe horizontal stresses, such as intersections. It is typically caused by: excess asphalt; too much fine aggregate; rounded aggregate; too soft an asphalt; or a weak granular base.
12. Upheaval: Upheaval is a localized upward movement in a pavement due to swelling of the subgrade. This can be due to expansive soils that swell due to moisture or frost heave (ice under the pavement).
13. Raveling (very porous asphalt): Raveling is the on-going separation of aggregate particles in a pavement from the surface downward or from the edges inward. Usually, the fine aggregate wears away first and then leaves little “pock marks” on the pavement surface. As the erosion continues, larger and larger particles are broken free and the pavement soon has the rough and jagged appearance typical of surface erosion. There are many reasons why raveling can occur, but one common cause is placing asphalt too late in the season. This is because the mixture usually lacks warm weather traffic which reduces pavement surface voids, further densification, and kneading of the asphalt mat. For this reason raveling is more common in the more northern regions(snow belt).
If you notice your pavement displaying any of the above problems, it is probably time to call a professional to patch your asphalt and prevent further damage. Do not put this off and let small cracks become big problems. It is far better to pay for a little patching now than to have to pay for a total re-paving down the road.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises aka My Pavement Guy by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
Tags: Aggregate, Alligator cracking, asphalt, Asphalt binder, Asphalt Pavement, Base, bird baths, Block Cracking, Block cracks, contract, Crack, Cracking, Cracks, Depressions, distress, Distressed, Drainage, Edge Cracks, Erosion, expand, Fail, Harsh weather, Heavy Traffic, Identifying Pavement Defects, interconnected cracks, Jagged, Joint Reflection Cracks, Linear Cracking, longitudinal cracking, Moisture, My Pavement Guy, pavement, Pavement Defects, Pavement Joints, Pock Marks, porous asphalt, Pot Holes, PTG Enterprises, Rain, Raveling, Rough, Ruts, Rutting, severe distress, Shoving, Shrinkage, Slippage Cracks, Snow, Structural failure, Sub grade, Surface, Temperature, Traffic, Transverse Cracking, Upheaval, Water, Weather
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Identifying Pavement Defects
Friday, June 24th, 2011
It’s a hole in the road. How hard can it be to fill a hole, right? Well, you might be surprised. Pothole repair is tough work and requires a trained crew and some specialty equipment. This article from PaveManPro.com explains the lengthy repair process.
How to repair a pothole:
1. With a pavement saw or pneumatic hammer, cut the outline of the patch, extending at least 0.3 m (I ft.) outside of the distressed area. The outline should be square or rectangular with two of the sides at right angles to the direction of traffic.
2. Excavate as much pavement as necessary to reach firm support. If a patch is to be an integral part of the pavement, its foundation must be as strong or stronger than that of the original roadway. This may mean that some of the sub-grade will also have to be removed. The faces of the excavation should be straight and vertical.
3. Trim and compact the sub-grade.
4. Apply a tack coat to the vertical faces of the excavation.
5. Backfill with the asphalt mixture. Using a shovel or skid steer loader place the mixture directly from the truck into the prepared excavation. The maximum lift thickness largely depends upon the type of asphalt mixture and the available compaction equipment. Asphalt concrete can and should be placed in deep lifts, since the greater heat retention of the thicker layers facilitates compaction. From a compaction standpoint, patches using asphalt concrete can be backfilled in one lift. However, when placing a patch that is deeper than 3 cm (5 in.) it is often useful to leave the first lift 2.5 to 5 cm (I to 2 in.) below the finished grade, making it easier to judge the total quantity of mixture required for the patch.
On the other hand, patches constructed with mixtures containing emulsified or cutback asphalt must be placed in layers thin enough to permit evaporation of the diluents that make the mixture workable.
6. Spread carefully to avoid segregation of the mixture. Avoid pulling the material from the center of the patch to the edges. If more material is needed at the edge, it should be deposited there, and the excess raked away. The amount of mixture used should be sufficient to ensure that the after compaction the patch surface will not be below that of the adjacent pavement. On the other hand, if too much material is used a hump will raise.
7. Compact each lift of the patch thoroughly. Use equipment that is suited for the size of the job. A vibratory plate compactor is excellent for small jobs, while a vibratory roller is likely to be more effective for larger areas. When compacting the final lift (which may be the only lift), overlap the first pass and return of the vibratory roller or plate compactor to no more than 5 cm (6 in.) on to the patch on one side. Then move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Once this is accomplished, proceed at right angles to the compacted edges, with each pass and return overlapping a few inches on to the uncompacted mix. If there is a grade, compaction should proceed from the low side to the high side to minimize possible shoving of the mix.
8. When adequate compaction equipment is used, the surface of the patch should be at the same elevation as the surrounding pavement. However, if hand tamping or other light compaction methods are used, the surface of the completed patch should be slightly higher than the adjacent pavement, since the patch is likely to be further compressed by traffic.
9. Check the vertical alignment and smoothness of the patch with a straightedge or string line.
So next time you complain about that pothole down the street not getting fixed or next time you think to yourself, “hey, I could do that in half the time,” remember that pothole repair is not a quick fix. Properly patching a pothole takes time, know-how, and a lot of energy.
If you have any questions, contact PTG Enterprises by calling 410-636-8777 or click here
Check us out on Facebook and Twitter as well!
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Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Pothole Repair: It’s a Bigger Job Than You May Think
Wednesday, March 30th, 2011
How do potholes happen?
Potholes are severe manifestations of pavement fatigue cracking resulting in a total loss of asphalt integrity in a localized area. This creates a hole in the road. It is not uncommon to have a pothole extend through or into the aggregate stone base. Potholes occur when water seeps into cracks in the asphalt surface of a road or driveway. This water will freeze and expand in the cold weather. A pothole forms when dirt and gravel are forced out leaving a hole. The ice will eventually melt away, leaving a pothole.
How can you quickly fix a pothole in your driveway?
For a very wide crack or pothole, shovel in packaged cold-patch blacktop, leveling large areas with an iron rake. Compact the material with a rented tamper or the end of a 4-by-4. Add more material until the hole is slightly overfilled. Cover it with scrap plywood and drive over it.
If you are looking to fix a pothole on a commercial parking surface or if you want a top quality repair, it is probably best to call a professional.
In the winter, potholes should be temporarily filled with a cold-patch mix material to protect against vehicle damage and/or lawsuits. Please note that this is only a temporary fix and left untreated correctly the pothole will most likely reappear. In the spring and summer months, potholes should be permanently patched.
Full-Depth Patching is the most common type of patching. This is where the pavement is completely removed in the troubled area and replaced. These areas are usually suffering from severe distress and / or sub-base failure. This is a permanent fix.
For professional pothole repair, contact PTG Enterprises – My Pavement Guy by calling 443-463-1536 or click here today!
Tags: asphalt, Asphalt repair, Asphalt repair Maryland, distress, driveway, driveway pothole, driveway repair, driveway repair Maryland, failure, FUll-depth patching, How can you quickly fix a pothole in your driveway?, How do potholes happen, My Pavement Guy, patching, Permanent fix, Pothole, Pothole driveway, Pothole quick fix, Pothole repair Maryland, Potholes and Repair, PTG Enterprises, quick fix, Repair, Temporary fix, trouble area, troubled area
Posted in General Asphalt Advice | Comments Off on Potholes and Repair
